1) The reset pin on the DIY side basically just connects to the reset button on the chronoshield, i just reslised it is not on the schematic, ill try to update that when i get time. In the meantime google up "Breadboard arduino" in google Images and you should find plenty examples of how it is done. it really does just trigger the reset function on the arduino.
2) We are currently out of the older version of Chronoshield, and are waiting on a fresh test batch that have been optimized for SMD parts, adds a switch to kill power to the display so you can upload code without killing the display, and also moves from the DB-9 connector to DIN 9. Once these come in I am sure we could work something out if you want one.
Making your own is always a very rewarding option as well, i had some boards made a while back that had the atmega328p, clock, voltage regular and everything else directly mounted to it, the entire package was only a few square inches of surface area, however due to a lack of interest i never had any more made. they had pinouts for all the controls but none of the controls mounted directly to it.
As for exporting it to a raspberri or beaglebone, i never had any desire to take on that task. i am sure an import could be done. We have a new multi axis graphic display system in the works, this will be so far out of reach for the average DIY'er we will probably not make that open source. I am still not sure if we will use an arduino mega due, or a chipkit max.
3) We have provided the instructions on how to build a controller step by step with readily available parts online with no custom parts needed. For the circuit boards I prefer not to post those schematics online. While i dont do this for money the amount we generate from selling complete controllers and such helps keep the motivation to keep this project alive. It re-enforces to me that people find this a quality and competitive system and that keeps me going. ANybody can take our schematics and draw thier own circuit boards and start selling them and undercutting us. If that happened i would probably stop all work on the open source aspect of this. the fact is i put in a ton of time and energy, and we do not make much off this at all. if somebody wants to go do that, they can go design thier own damn boards.
4) That confusion is probably my fault. I have a hard time with the proper vocabulary due to a lack of any industry standard. From my point of view i generally define the interval being the time between images taken by the camera.
With my particular flavor of shoot move shoot, i feel it is important to push the motion to the very end of the interval, which is directly after the camera takes the shot. This allows the maximum amount of time for the system to remain still and hopefully reduce any motion shake before the camera triggers.
On our systems the motion is extremely smooth and there are no jarring motions that might introduce virbration or camera wobble, however the foundation fo the ChronoTimer code was to introduce a "usable" and "Understandable" open source code that anyone could work with. I figured there would be people using this for different purposes, and so far people have used this system from everything from Linear lead-screw, linear belt, self propelled cart, pan, tilt, lens control, even a 360 degree product shot platform.
5) You are correct. That is something i have been meaning to do but just never got around to doing. You really have 2 options with this, the first of course is to use chronos in sync mode with an external intervalometer and you just let it snap more images after it is done with its routine.
The other option is Live Ramping, this method you control the ramp up and ramp down, and it will continue to shoot up to 9999 images, so you can start it off without any motion, then start adding steps, once you get near the end start ramping down steps and just let it keep snapping shots once it has stopped. you can even start it back up or reverse directions. Live ramping is awsome, i prefer to do everything with live ramping as it lets you do anything, not just move end to end.
6) E is not finished yet, we do not want to show any images and how it works but i can share some information about it.
Right now the goals, many achieved and some we are still working out but we feel they are perfectly achieveable
It is a belt drive system
two 1 meter rails that combine for a 2 meter setup, or a 1 meter setup. More can be added as well, the chronocontroller has a max of about 5 meters i believe for the programmed modes, this might be increased on the next version of code.
it will support a-b keyframing for simple setup. (it already supports this with the lens apparatus)
High speed end to end travel in about 25 seconds
vertical lift payload of 10lbs (more than enough for a 5dmk3, big lens, ball head, etc)
stepper controlled and capable of repeatable moves.
We are also looking to add in a couple other unique things that no other system has ben able to do that we think people would really like but i dont want to get into those yet.
And "E" stands for Economical. We will be putting these our for a very very attractive price. it will e our least expencive time lapse rail by a wide margin.
I have a working prototype, and it already does everything i mention and does it well, however the carriage is something we machined out and our intent is to fund with enough to get injection molding done, we do not want to show the prototype and have people recieve something that looks different than they are going to recieve. So we are waiting on a 3D printer which should be here soon so we can produce the final product and present it as it will appear. Make sure all the measurements are legit, then we will start our kickstarter campaign.