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Author Topic: Some Basic Questions
Dux
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Posts: 5
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Post Some Basic Questions
on: July 22, 2013, 14:28
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Hey,

I'm just starting to plan my diy Chronos Lite and understand your code. I came up with some questions:

Controller hardware:

1. I can't find any information how you wired the reset-button, or I didn't notice it. The only thing I found is, that it's hardwired. Is it wired to the Res pin like the limit switches?

2. My first circuit will probably be an temporary one. After that I have different plans. I'm not sure which to go for:
- A PCB similar to the one you are using right now
- A PCB with SMD-Resistors and a barebone Arduino to get a really small controller
- Transfering your code to a raspberry or beaglebone to have more than enough power to control more than one axis. Would be alot of coding, including some additional buttons and dials, so more of a long term project.

Did you try anything similar before?

3. Will you make your pcb-layout (or the part-list) available or will it be your business secret?
I'm having troubles finding the correct buttons and potentiometers that fit with the height of the display, which is another hard to find part.

Questions on the code:

4. In all your explanations you mention that the camera will move after the interval. Shouldn't the move be part of the interval? Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you.

5. Can i programm Hold Frames after the routine is finished? As far as i understand it I would have to use an external timer and the Chronos as a slave.

Basic Questions:

6. Can you give informations about Chronos E? I keep hearing about it but i can't find anything specific.

At the moment I'm planing the parts in CAD and try to find all those i have to buy. Small metric anti-backlash nuts are hard to find.

Greetings from Germany and thanks for the time and effort you put into this project.

Chris@Chro-
nos
Administrator
Posts: 137
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: July 23, 2013, 17:55
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1) The reset pin on the DIY side basically just connects to the reset button on the chronoshield, i just reslised it is not on the schematic, ill try to update that when i get time. In the meantime google up "Breadboard arduino" in google Images and you should find plenty examples of how it is done. it really does just trigger the reset function on the arduino.

2) We are currently out of the older version of Chronoshield, and are waiting on a fresh test batch that have been optimized for SMD parts, adds a switch to kill power to the display so you can upload code without killing the display, and also moves from the DB-9 connector to DIN 9. Once these come in I am sure we could work something out if you want one.

Making your own is always a very rewarding option as well, i had some boards made a while back that had the atmega328p, clock, voltage regular and everything else directly mounted to it, the entire package was only a few square inches of surface area, however due to a lack of interest i never had any more made. they had pinouts for all the controls but none of the controls mounted directly to it.

As for exporting it to a raspberri or beaglebone, i never had any desire to take on that task. i am sure an import could be done. We have a new multi axis graphic display system in the works, this will be so far out of reach for the average DIY'er we will probably not make that open source. I am still not sure if we will use an arduino mega due, or a chipkit max.

3) We have provided the instructions on how to build a controller step by step with readily available parts online with no custom parts needed. For the circuit boards I prefer not to post those schematics online. While i dont do this for money the amount we generate from selling complete controllers and such helps keep the motivation to keep this project alive. It re-enforces to me that people find this a quality and competitive system and that keeps me going. ANybody can take our schematics and draw thier own circuit boards and start selling them and undercutting us. If that happened i would probably stop all work on the open source aspect of this. the fact is i put in a ton of time and energy, and we do not make much off this at all. if somebody wants to go do that, they can go design thier own damn boards. ;)

4) That confusion is probably my fault. I have a hard time with the proper vocabulary due to a lack of any industry standard. From my point of view i generally define the interval being the time between images taken by the camera.
With my particular flavor of shoot move shoot, i feel it is important to push the motion to the very end of the interval, which is directly after the camera takes the shot. This allows the maximum amount of time for the system to remain still and hopefully reduce any motion shake before the camera triggers.

On our systems the motion is extremely smooth and there are no jarring motions that might introduce virbration or camera wobble, however the foundation fo the ChronoTimer code was to introduce a "usable" and "Understandable" open source code that anyone could work with. I figured there would be people using this for different purposes, and so far people have used this system from everything from Linear lead-screw, linear belt, self propelled cart, pan, tilt, lens control, even a 360 degree product shot platform.

5) You are correct. That is something i have been meaning to do but just never got around to doing. You really have 2 options with this, the first of course is to use chronos in sync mode with an external intervalometer and you just let it snap more images after it is done with its routine.

The other option is Live Ramping, this method you control the ramp up and ramp down, and it will continue to shoot up to 9999 images, so you can start it off without any motion, then start adding steps, once you get near the end start ramping down steps and just let it keep snapping shots once it has stopped. you can even start it back up or reverse directions. Live ramping is awsome, i prefer to do everything with live ramping as it lets you do anything, not just move end to end.

6) E is not finished yet, we do not want to show any images and how it works but i can share some information about it.
Right now the goals, many achieved and some we are still working out but we feel they are perfectly achieveable

It is a belt drive system

two 1 meter rails that combine for a 2 meter setup, or a 1 meter setup. More can be added as well, the chronocontroller has a max of about 5 meters i believe for the programmed modes, this might be increased on the next version of code.

it will support a-b keyframing for simple setup. (it already supports this with the lens apparatus)

High speed end to end travel in about 25 seconds

vertical lift payload of 10lbs (more than enough for a 5dmk3, big lens, ball head, etc)

stepper controlled and capable of repeatable moves.

We are also looking to add in a couple other unique things that no other system has ben able to do that we think people would really like but i dont want to get into those yet.

And "E" stands for Economical. We will be putting these our for a very very attractive price. it will e our least expencive time lapse rail by a wide margin.

I have a working prototype, and it already does everything i mention and does it well, however the carriage is something we machined out and our intent is to fund with enough to get injection molding done, we do not want to show the prototype and have people recieve something that looks different than they are going to recieve. So we are waiting on a 3D printer which should be here soon so we can produce the final product and present it as it will appear. Make sure all the measurements are legit, then we will start our kickstarter campaign.

fabians.ch
Beginner
Posts: 49
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: July 25, 2013, 09:48
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Hi Dux,

I did not find a fitting 8mmx1,5 anti backlash nut with flange at all (Europe as well), so you probably don't wanna go with a 8x1,5 lead screw. 6x1 might possibly be a better choice.

I ended up drawing kind of a clamp to put in the flange-less nut I already have and will order this at shapeways or i.materialise to be printed in steel. Hope this will work out.

Maybe this is of any use to you..

Best,
Fabian

Dux
Newbie
Posts: 5
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: July 25, 2013, 14:07
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Hi Fabian,

At the moment i'm thinking of finding an imperial thread, metric threads under 10mm are nonstandard.
The other solution would be a selfmade antibacklash nut using two regular nuts an a spring.
The igus antibacklash for 8x1.5 is to big or would require some mechanic work to make it fit the small rail. (cutting some parts away and drilling holes for the screws.

Did you find a 6x1 antibacklash nut and thread in Europe?

Best

fabians.ch
Beginner
Posts: 49
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: August 5, 2013, 01:33
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Hey,

I was actually not looking for a 6x1 AB nut at all. I've ordered the 8x1.5 lead screw and was gonna use Igus's nut, though they do not have a flanged one, which was the beginning of that problem..

Finding an imperial thread might probably be a good choice!

Cheers,
Fabian

Dux
Newbie
Posts: 5
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: August 5, 2013, 08:20
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Hey,

I did find another source for the thread and nut (haydonkerk.de)
At the moment I am waiting for an answer whether they sell to private people and what the maximum length of a thread is. The price for the lead screw seems to be quite high though.

For the time beeing I am working on the Controller. I found all the parts I need. I might be able to do the etching at work, so I'm working on the layout for the pcb.

Cheers,
Dux

Dux
Newbie
Posts: 5
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: June 27, 2014, 16:13
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Hey,

after moving and finishing another project I finally have the time to concentrate on my Chronos. ;)
Most of the parts are ordered so I should be able to start next week.

I'm going to use a 8x1.5 Igus screw because the other options did not work out or were way more expensive.
For the controller I decided to follow your assembly instructions. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for providing those! ;)

Best
Dux

Chris@Chro-
nos
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Posts: 137
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: June 30, 2014, 17:53
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Sure thing! Let us know if you run into any problems!

Dux
Newbie
Posts: 5
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: July 14, 2014, 19:50
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Just finished the controller. Everything seems to work. Took me around three and a half hours in total.
I'll do some more testing when my stepper finally arrives. Also the Igus rail hasn't arrived yet. :(

The next challenge will be forcing all the wires into the box. There are more cables than I thought there would be.

Chris@Chro-
nos
Administrator
Posts: 137
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Post Re: Some Basic Questions
on: July 14, 2014, 20:57
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Its a bit of a fit!, i found that if i take the faceplate and twist it 360 degrees it bunches the wires up and keeps them nice and neat before i close the box. :)

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